March 2018

…I only own my mind 

North is to south what the clock is to time
There’s east and there’s west and there’s everywhere life

I know I was born and I know that I’ll die

The in-between is mine

I am mine…

‘I Am Mine’… Pearl Jam

The Wheel of Time

In March 2018 I had a lifetime experience that did not involve some variation of DMT or even an orgy; perhaps it was of this lifetime or in another lifetime, in this universe or an alternative – what I perceive as those days in March 2018 could be today, or 2532 years ago, perhaps it will be tomorrow. Regardless if time is non-linear and if we actually live in a multiverse (RIP Stephen Hawking); one of the lessons learned is: if you do not solve your issues, they will repeat; in this lifetime and in the possible another; be it today, tomorrow, last year, 5000 years from now, or 5000 year ago…

Part 1: Commuting, Culture, Cuisine, Colonialism, and Cityscapes

India – The Dance of Shiva Continues

Create/ Destroy/ Destruction is a form of creation/ Creation is a form of destruction/ Wash/ Rinse/ Repeat/ 1/ 0/ Yes/ No/ Create/ Destroy…

I visited India years ago and still to this date it was the worst trip and the best trip I have ever been on. The place was so out-there culturally, spiritually, viscerally, fragrantly (usually not a good thing) and challenging to travel: that every other trip or area I have been to since, has had an ounce of boring in comparison. Mosaic within a mosaic. Upon leaving, I wanted to return, but was in no rush too…

15 years or so later, everything has changed and everything is the same. ‘Samsara’. Organized chaos has become chaos organized. Delhi is a great city, but still the earth’s asshole. Amitabh Bachchan remains a demigod superstar (and likely will be reincarnated as such), Kashmir and Punjab in dispute, people pick their nose in public (we all wish we could), taxi cars still have guru shrines on their dash (although now more austere and no longer obstruct the view of the road), Hindu’s love their car horns, there is still a love/hate relationship with the British and a Gandhi is perpetually in politics. India is polluted, dirty; over populated, has not developed any sense of personal space and remains bureaucratic AF. I will reiterate bureaucratic AF.

Conversely India is now modern, ever diverse, and cosmopolitan with improved infrastructure, attempts at environmental controls, a large sustained middle class, juice bars, designer labels, health food, gluten-free, premium whiskey, espresso, and Uber! We do not even have Uber in Vancouver! In several ways, there is no difference between India and parts of greater Vancouver. On a grander scale it’s more of a different shade of brown than the USofA – complete with evangelists &/or conmen, Osho freaks, get-rich-quick schemes, a globe tilting 1%, economies of scale, populist politicians, struggles between church and state, phallic pride of military might, and an alternative spicy cuisine – but in India you can get your curry in a tortilla wrap.

Despite the tortilla, thankfully Indian food is still characteristic of its various regions, while the stock quality has improved. Yet, for good or bad, cuisine is westernizing – perhaps for the West’s betterment: the Dominos pizza at the airport was nothing short of freshly-made fast-food excellence with the freshest hot-peppers in all of India! North America is likely on the decline, where India is rising as they definitely have their shit sorted*. India has even banned the plastic bag. Hopefully it will not be nearly 15 years before my next visit

*Incidentally, but unrelated there was no instance or even dinner table discussion of ‘Delhi Belly’ on this trip.

Hong Kong – Sky Scrapers, Shopping Malls, and Happy Meals

Before one gets to India, they have to commute, and perhaps via Hong Kong:

In all my travels across the Pacific (not bragging, just making a fact) I never crossed through Hong Kong – then I did. Hong Kong is definitely the most accessible of Asian Cities as it offers a more sanitized version of more interesting Asian cities or London for that matter (colonialism – the good). With that typed, after a few hours one may realize that Hong Kong is really just a vertical flight-hub/ free-trade nexus zone for Asia. It is defiantly a liveable city, just like Las Vegas has its tourist-free neighbourhoods; but the average tourist is really just moving train-stop-to-train-stop ‘mind the gap’ for another designer good shopping mall experience. One would think Switzerland is in Hong Kong with the amount of watch shops. I am also convinced that Bottega Veneta, Ermengildo Zenga, Brunello Cuciello and Bvalargia are actually Cantonese names that Marco Polo may have imported to Italy ~700 years ago.

The old markets, antique districts, bespoke sartorial, and counterfeit allies are somewhat gone and replaced by hipster storefronts, pret-a-porter, authorized boutiques and cocktail bars in this far-east Portland. No strange creatures or gremlins were available for purchase – trust me, I looked. The experience was still great, Hong Kong has some great museums and public art, as well as an enormous amount of urban green space and amazing parks – just do not be surprised by the shopping mall and Swarovski crystals at the summit of your hike.

The food is fresh, fantastic, and progressive be it Asian or International. It is also fairly cheap, unless there are a couple Michelin stars or a view/118-story elevator ride fermented into the cost of that $20 beer. The faro and fennel dumplings, dim sum, and peking duck prepared a’la Provence were fantastic; however the ‘Wonder Woman’ movie ice cream experience at Hong Kong Station was notable. It was like eating ice cream for the first time. Prepared by some Italians likely smuggled in a crate of leather goods stamped with Cantonese words such as Prada or Furla – to quote the film and its ice cream sequence ‘It’s wonderful, you should be proud’.

Part 2 – The Philosopher King of the Tibetan Republic

Dharmsala 2018 – Tenzin Talks or Master Class

My introduction to this travelogue was abstract l and may have kept you reading to this point. It was reflective of one of the frontiers my mind ventured/ correlated/ expanded and partially embellished after having the opportune fortune to attend the Mind & Life Conference at Thekshen Choling, the monastery home of this scientist-monk named Tenzin Gyatso, aka the 14^th Dalai Lama. The bulk of the conference was not abstract and focused on mindfulness and it’s implementation into our modern society, particularly education. However, when these ‘Tenzin Talks’ (pun intended) are combined with leading thinkers and laureates from diverse backgrounds including but not limited to neuroscience, physics, epigenetics, neuroplasticity, linguistics, education, biology, psychology, awareness, mathematics, AI and perhaps Buddhism was also discussed – many ideas solidified and ensued.

Mindfulness or a ‘How To’ in Being a Human Being

Realizing mindfulness can be little new age of a term over-used by those typically with a limp handshake; it is important to break it down and summate. Mindfulness is essentially Buddhist Philosophy and is about awareness, being in the now and controlling thoughts and behaviours; outcomes and understanding, the cause and effect (and exiting the cycle) our emotions and actions can play with and within us – and our interactions with others. It taps into (or likely is) cognitive psychology, existentialism, perception and realizing that we are the source and solution to many of our problems. One cannot necessarily control the action, but can control the reaction. It is important and is becoming factored into many educational and other programs as it builds a wiser, tolerant and healthier society. Like many ancient philosophies it often comes down to ‘do on to others…’

Nothing can harm you as much as your own thoughts unguarded – Buddha

Another way to look at the importance of Mindfulness, it’s about reducing stress or our endocrine name for it cortisol. Cortisol was discussed almost ad nauseam during the event. Historically, Fight or Flight used to be a rare occurrence and an often automated subconscious response; ‘There is a tiger, do I run or fight? Wow! I ran (or fought) and did not think about it! I wonder if the tiger is enjoying his meal as I am being eaten alive?

Anyhow, with the stress of modern life, our tigers are typically metaphorical and constantly pushing us to live in a perpetual state of Fight or Flight with cortisol permanently present and overdriving our bodies and behaviours. So reduce cortisol and perhaps then can one ask deeper questions such as ‘Perhaps I am eating the Tiger, but I perceive it as eating me? Is this tiger my mother in future life? Or perhaps I am it’s mother in past live, but instead of people or tigers we are extra-terrestrial cosmic star dolphins on that particular instance of space-time…’

The Dalai Lama simply summates mindfulness as the ‘Hygiene of Emotion’ and recommends one should practice ‘clearing one’s head as one brushes his or her teeth’. He also encourages self-control and to navigate with an ‘Atlas of Emotions’. Another way is to look at it with ‘Invictus’: ‘… I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul.’

We are what we think. All that we are arises with our thoughts. With our thoughts, we make the world – Buddha

Compassion & Mind Training – Let Go & Gain Control

In Tibetan Buddhism there are many texts on ‘Mind Training’ and how to use it as a tool for betterment of one’s self and relationships with others. As an athlete trains his body, a person should train his or her mind. Much of it is letting go of self, ego, place (term is ‘Annihilation’) and looking outside one’s self, circumstance, problem, opponent, conflict or demons. From here, a meditation of deductive reasoning is applied by rationally applying logic and for lack of a better word, love to the challenge. It really is walking in someone else’s shoes (hopefully it will not involve hiking in stilettos) or even another pair of your own to understand, sympathize, perhaps empathize and find a new equilibrium with them, but likely yourself.

No one saves us but ourselves. No one can and no one may. We ourselves must walk the path – Buddha

The Dalai Lama is stated to be a reincarnation of deity of compassion and definitely embodies it. He states that compassion is not easy and takes work. It will not always lead to forgiveness, but it will lead to understanding and a way to move forward. Compassion helps us traverse our circumstance. It is reflected in meditation, particularly analytical mediation and is not found in prayer. He stated prayer is a waste of time, presumably as answers are found within (investigation, possibly changing your mind and thus the outcome) and with logic versus wishing to or negotiating with the imaginary. This approach is not dissimilar to the Socratic principal of living an examined life.

There is no need for temples; no need for complicated philosophy. Our own brain, our own heart is our temple; the philosophy is kindness – Dalai Lama

With all that now typed – a picture of a stupa shrine or temple and some philosophy:

It is hypocritical to think one can live his life without being a hypocrite – Sean Crowe 

Interdependence and/or the Unified Theory of Everything

Looking at belief systems via an anthropological lens, Buddhism came to be in India give or take 2500 years ago (or tomorrow pending on how one perceives it) and moved around the known world to evolve into other interpretations (Tao, Confucius, Zen) and influence other faiths. My interpretation on why it flourished in Tibet is for the same reason wealth has flourished in Switzerland – it’s a natural fortress and a neutral territory independent from mongrel chaos and time. Tibet is known as the ‘land or snows’ and part of ‘the roof of the world’. The people have a unique perspective or pattern recognition of human ecology watching the world unfold below: and of celestial place as the heavens manifest above. Further, until the 1950’s it never really had a barbarian invasion and was able to preserve their culture and Buddhist texts transcending empires that have cut easier routes from Europe to Cathay, and the other way.

Thousands of candles can be lighted from a single candle, and the life of the candle will not be shortened. Happiness never decreases by being shared – Buddha

Interdependence was historically viewed as the relationships between people, their actions, the resulting karma and their place in the next life. Modern understandings of time, genetics, even AI both reinforce and reduce the above. Regardless, the Dalai Lama tackles Interdependence as a more modern equilibrium. Nothing is a closed system and our community, our environment, our climate, our economy, our humanity, etc. are all networked and have a correlated Dharma (or cosmic order). The system can expand positively, but can contract due to one area tainting the others. As this discerns to human interactions; life is a game and it does not have to be zero-sum: One must view conflicts as opportunities, enemies as neighbours – as if you have no conflict or enemies; you have probably killed your neighbours and ergo no longer have any opportunities, or vice-versa. The same can be said for our globe – we destroy our climate and we no longer can sustain our economy, our living conditions, ourselves. But perhaps it is the opposite; we are destroying ourselves, our living conditions, our economy, and our thus our climate. Effect can precede cause…

Interdependence (& Impermanence) – Nothing Matters & We Are All Made of Matter

This Interdependence is also why the philosophy lends so well to not just belief systems or the human condition – but to science and the unexplored. The below both partially explain and are explained by Buddhism and its Dharma:

• Ecology – By its definition: the branch of biology that deals with the relations of organisms to one another and to their physical surroundings
• Thermodynamics – Energy is never created or destroyed, just transferred from one form to another
• Newton’s 3 Laws of Motion – Every action has an equal and opposite reaction
• Relativity – What we perceive is relative to our coordinate on space-time or where we are viewing it from
• Quantum Mechanics – Everything ultimately is composed of energy, matter is just frozen light or stardust
• Darwin – ‘Those who survive are the ones who most accurately perceive their environment and successfully adapt to it’

And my additions:

• Neuroscience – One’s mind can be as infinite or as empty as outer space
• Sean’s Law – Nothing Matters & We Are All Made of Matter

‘As I am, so are these. As are these, so am I’ – Buddha

This Mind Life Institution began in the late 1980’s when a neuroscientist named Francisco Varela and the Dalai Lama had a chance meeting. Essentially, they found their own interdependence of ideas where Dharma (V. Dogma) could help bridge the challenges of Science; and Science could assist as conduit the unknowns of being. The impossible is not necessarily improbable. The Dalai Lama refers to himself as a ‘Scientist – Monk’, and the scientific method is an important approach to what is known and when approaching the unknown.

Into The Mystic or Cerebrum Incognito

Since I was a child I have had an interest in the Himalayas – the Forbidden Kingdoms, Shangri-La, Yetis, and the Sangha – the mystical monks of the high altitude frontier. I had the impression that via mediation the mind could be focused to transcend and move just about everything including space and time. It turns out pop culture deceived me, and also reinforced what my comic book imagination hoped it to be. The event allowed me to speak with some of the monastic who are an impressive bunch undertaking as much as 17 years of study in their sacred disciplines (and usually earning a couple master degrees or PHDs in between). Some monks excel at debate, which is not dissimilar from those who take a Socratic approach, practice rabbinic debate or play the Devil’s Advocate. While other monks exceed at controlling the hardware of their body like a Linux operating system – slowing it down to a controlled comatose state, or speeding it up with the ability of creating heat and energy fields (likely were the appearance of levitation is derived). Some can calm, relax, and/or focus their mind to such a state that they enter the ether or realm of psychonauts, where psychedelics can also expedite you. I also learned about Yetis, or as the monks call them ‘Metoh’. In their words, the Metoh is real, dangerous and is more than the bear it has been recently confirmed as. As 17 years of study is a long-time and I will likely never see a yeti; I may have to combine a few techniques and relax, sit cross-legged, chant and ensure I drink the correct ‘herbal’ tea to find out.

Big Ear Buddha

Remember the old adage of having 2 ears and one mouth? Well, it sort of plays itself out in Buddhist Symbolism. Why does the Buddha have big ears? It displays wisdom via the ability to listen. Presumably he is sitting cross-legged too as yoga provides the flexibility to put one’s foot in his mouth.

Meeting Yoda

Listening to the Dalai Lama’s thoughts and his thoughts and interpretations of Buddhist philosophy is not unlike listening to Yoda – they even have the same peculiar laugh evoked every few sentences with nerdy glee. I think I even heard the Dalai Lama quote Yoda verbatim; ‘Fear leads to anger. Anger leads to hate. Hate leads to suffering’. Nevertheless, imaginary or not – both are insightful. On the third-day of the conference, I had an opportunity to meet the Dalai Lama. The moment was not surreal, but beyond ordinary. The most amazing part of the experience was the Dalai Lama was more interested in us (Nicky and I) than we were in him. He knew exactly why we were there, the volunteer work (mostly Nicky; assuming linear time I am now paying it forward) that was done. He then thanked us for the ability to share his message and communicate without the travel, as ‘at 82 years old, my ability to travel is not good’. It was Nicky ‘s moment, and he received a head-butt blessing, and as I was too tall and frightening – we held hands. Please don’t misread the situation and start rumours. However, feel free to relay ‘in another life; I (Sean) taught him all he knows’.

Exile on Main Street

Leadership does not make the moment, but the moment can make the leader. One is expected to address the Dalai Lama as ‘His Holiness’. Although someone I respect, it was difficult for me to refer to the Dalai Lama as such. I am not one to acknowledge birthright and have similar thoughts about monarchy (I do not believe in God, nor in saving the Queen) or politics as a family business (Beware of Emperor Justinian and his Animal Farm) in a democratic society. However, after learning more about the Tibetan Exodus, the Dalai Lama’s role in leading his people into India and what occurred afterward, the Dalai Lama definitely earns the title of ‘His Holiness’.

His Holiness is less a steward of an ancient philosophy, and more akin to MLK, Gandhi, Mandela, and his friend Desmond Tutu – at the essence, the Dalai Lama is a civil rights activist. In His Holiness’ case, he had to flee with 80,000+ others the Chinese invasion and subsequent occupation of Tibet. India, being a new country at the time generously provided refuge. Nevertheless, His Holiness’ leadership ensured democratic reforms; a government in exile, complete with education and cultural stewardship for their country to continue, evolve and essentially exist that if/ when the Tibetan’s have the chance to return to their Himalayan homeland, they have continued and adapted for their world and that around them. Change is a constant  (‘Impermanence’ is a central Buddhist tenant). Somewhere along the way, the Dalai Lama also found the compassion to forgive or at least understand China on the whole matter (China likely annexed Tibet for the water…). Anyway, afforded good leadership the model could be a successful for other displaced cultures – be they in exile or exile from (Portage and) Main Street.

Remember that sometimes not getting what you want is a wonderful stroke of luck – Dalai Lama

My summate interpretation: Respect your people and provide them a chance to evolve via space, choice, purpose and democracy – but do not or have others legislate their assimilation or subsidize their apartheid.

I was described the detail of the above by Rinchen Khando of the Tibetan Nuns Project. Rinchen has presided over many education and women’s initiatives for the Tibetan people in exile. Her, her story and her work are equally impressive to His Holiness and further humanize the Tibetan situation, the Dalai Lama and herself – Their collective sense of hard work, humour and humbleness is a simple lesson for everyone. Ms. Khando refers to herself as a ‘professional beggar’ as she solicits funds for her projects, while His Holiness’ takes the tone of true leadership: ‘Other’s do all the work, I get to show up and take the credit.’

Buddhaful Days & Bodhiful Nights

It was an involving and exhilarating 5 days. 15 years ago, I also visited Dharmsala – but had more emotions than adult experiences (or issues) to context it all. I have shared the more lucid and less personal thoughts and learning in this document. I cannot say I am any closer to any fabled awaking, enlightenment, or dare I type Buddha-hood; but I have definitely revisited some toolsets and found a new ones to deal with the moment of now; be it actually now, or the future events of last century, or the past events of 4352 AD – It really does not matter. One of the highlights of the whole experience was trading ether for ether by inversing my reality and (re) awaking my mind through the simple activity of not being able to use a mobile phone or computer for about 18 hours each day.

If you want others to be happy, practice compassion. If you want to be happy, practice compassion – Dalai Lama

Part 3 – Flying High on the Transcendental Wind (Well, Hiking at least)

The Roulette Wheel of Time

After such an exciting week, why go home? I may have Facetimed home to ask permission on extending my stay, or I may have booked the flight first; based on the opening premise of this travelogue – the order of the decision to extend my stay really does not matter as I could possibly be departing tomorrow or still there. I may have perceived asking permission first, but booked the flight instead. Anyway, what really is important is that I asked both permission and forgiveness on extending my stay, potentially after or before a flight was booked. My renewed understanding of time can make decisions difficult and difficult to pinpoint, especially when effect can both precede and proceed the cause.

The Roof of the World – At Least Its Eavestrough

After learning so much about Tibetan culture, why not go to Tibet? At least the Tibetan Plateau… and that is how I ended up in Leh, Ladakh (My Chinese Visa was also expired). Located in the Kashmir region of Northern India (or Pakistan, or China, or Tibet depending on who you may be debating with), Ladakh evidently means ‘Land of the High Passes’. It lives up to its name, as the plateau is ~3500m, and the passes can peak at nearly 6000m. The airport is a civilian wing of a large military installation set in an arid alpine desert. Outside of these installations and checkpoints, India is now securing its borders via the best nation-building defence system – tourism.

From Spice Routes to Silk Roads and now Sightseeing

Leh was once a great trading city, but has become a tourist hub for miscellaneous adventurers, mountaineers, wanderlust lost souls and the emerging India middle-classes. Who, wish to white-water raft, motorcycle, trek, and develop their modern mountain culture. If California can birth the Sierra Club, India can have a Himalaya Club and we all know it has the potential to be bigger. Anyway, when visiting Leh – please ensure you do not show up two-weeks before the beginning of tourist season. If you do, you may be eating street food and bread versus restaurant meals with delightful Tibetan cuisine. Little was open as the people were dusting off the city for the impending influx.

The benefit of arriving early is there were no line-ups at the sites and accommodation was easy to procure. The downside is to venture into certain places such as the Karakoram Valley ‘K2’; permits are required and one requires other foreigners to purchase such permits. Two foreigners minimum per permit is required, and it was hard to find or rent foreign, military or even ‘white’ friends. It was also ineffective to attempt to bribe officials for passage. I suppose it is no longer the developing world when they are too honest to be corrupt and white men no longer have privilege (colonialism – the aftermath).

Thikse & Lamayuru –  La-ma-yu-ru (So Fun To Say)

So when one cannot do as he pleases, he has to take in the culture and museums. The culture and museums were probably more interesting than the world’s highest road and some mountain flowers – but they were not the world’s highest road… There was actually one museum, but plenty of culture to observe – forts, monasteries, more monasteries, mosques, lunar geographic foundations, ancient cities, stupas (shrines) and the magnificent Thikse & Lamayuru Monasteries were visited. At Lamayuru, the mediation chamber sign was in front of the outhouse – enlightenment is universal.

As with everywhere, the people were probably the finest attraction. An ethnic mix of genetic and culture consisting of Buddhists, Shia Muslim, and Sikh. All were friendly, helpful, and seemed to have respect for each other (or the large local military presence ensures this). A Buddhist Temple catered to Muslim’s spinning the Moni Wheels, and in the Muslim Bakery they had photos of the local Lamas. Everyone also seemed to wear Kashmir, discuss ice hockey (the regional sport) and fall asleep in his or her respective shops – likely resting up for tourist season.

Part 4 – Post Script

Presidential Words

To use recent ‘Presidential’ words, India would be likely be referred to as a ‘shithole country’. People from such places should be proud; because bacteria culture, and the human equivalent develop at an accelerated pace in shitholes; language, written word, fitness, civilizations, philosophy, information systems (how do you manage 1 Billion+ people), and of course compassion (how else do you tolerate 1 Billion+ people) all made substantial developments in this sub-continent. Only to Silk Road and Spice Route their way as export elsewhere and everywhere to be commoditized, colonized, branded, patented, optioned, exploited, destroyed, wash, rinse, repeat… Samsara.

Other Musings & Insights

• Don’t mix meditation and malaria pills – best to stick to gin & tonic
• We choose to be ornaments of our environments, inner peace is really self confidence
• Best to stay clear of monkeys and cows with balls
• Non-Dualality between subject and object will become a near future ‘It’ concept
• Just let sleeping dogs lie – wherever and whenever

• Those colourful Himalayan Prayer Flags are not Pride Flags
• iPhone Cameras are impressive as you can see by these photos, but are still not a real camera (mine broke in HK)
• Buddhist meditation/prayer beads and rosaries are just adult fidget spinners

Thank You

Many thanks to Javier for forfeiting his seat in Dharmsala and allowing my trip to commence. To Nicky as an excellent travelling and conversation companion. To Victor Chan, a true explorer, gentleman, rogue, and elusive snow lion (all by definition –  buy his books) for being the nexus to this whole misadventure. Don and Chonjor of the Office of the Dalai Lama deserve a significant thank you for their facilitation. And a big acknowledgement to Claudia for little fuss in my absence at home for this trip, and another 4 business trips within the same month… and perhaps missing her birthday; but then again if the above made any sense – I may not have…